Episode 2: Ben O’Donoghue on the Past, Present, and Future of Food

From appearances on Masterchef Australia to expanding his café into a franchise, the wind blows in the right direction for Ben O’Donoghue. We spoke with Ben in his newly opened Billykart Kitchen in the West End of Brisbane. An easy-going personality on and off the screen, Ben has made a name for himself on television and the real world.

As the West End is the second location – the original Billykart is in Annerley – we asked Ben how the opening went. Though the restaurant is thriving today, there were some bumps in the road. “Nothing happened on time, everything went wrong that could’ve gone wrong.” Some of the frustrations, Ben thinks, were due to his relative lack of control and good communication. With the first Billykart, Ben worked directly with everyone in charge, even the builders. Still, he considers the experience satisfying, and takes everything in stride.

Opening the first Billykart in Annerley with his wife was not so smooth, either. It seemed that everything that could go wrong did. Among other disasters, the coffee machine broke down and a juicer mishap covered a worker in fruit pulp. They also got some harsh criticism on social media, which his wife found tough to tolerate. Ben considers critics on sites such as Yelp to be selfish and shortsighted in their comments. “They don’t consider the impact that their perceived professional opinion has on others.” That said, he doesn’t take online comments seriously, and has kept going with the restaurant franchise.

Today, it’s as important as ever to have a bit of empathy. Listening to exclusively negative criticism is a waste of time, Ben says. But if someone has more thoughtful and constructive criticism, they may be worth listening to. As a customer and business owner, Ben learned to be unafraid to voice a complaint in the moment – even when dining at a good friend’s restaurant.

Ben has always been interested in cooking, but stumbled upon a career in food rather accidentally. After spending the summer volunteering on an island off the coast of WA, he loved it so much that he found a way to stay. This led him to taking a kitchen job. He found a strong sense of camaraderie with the chefs in the kitchen, and the workdays were fuelled with adrenaline and action. His first time making béarnaise sauce was on the job, with some help from the head chef, and he succeeded spectacularly. Ben credits this experience to hooking him into a career in restaurants.

Things have changed in the industry since Ben started out. In addition to the arrival of social media and the proliferation of the everyman as critic, the back of house atmosphere has changed. There’s a skill shortage, he says, in part due to the cutthroat working conditions for young chefs and apprentices. The traditional expectation of starting out at 70 hours a week may keep some talent from entering the industry. He generally keeps his own kitchen crew to 40 hours a week. “If you want longevity, you’ve got to give people a bit of work-life balance, you know?”

Having expanded his single restaurant into a burgeoning franchise, Ben has a word of advice for those looking to do the same. When expanding into a second location, planning is key, and something he admits he could’ve done better in his own expansion. “You’ve got to make sure that the product you’re delivering meets the expectations of the customers.” Having good support in place is just as important as when starting up your own business.

In spite of all his good luck, Ben says he could have struck out on his own sooner. He’d had multiple opportunities in the past, but decided not to take them. He advises young chefs today to go ahead and be brave, strike out on your own. It’s easier, in some ways, to take a big risk when you’re young – if it doesn’t work out, you can dust yourself off and go back to working for others. As you get older, there’s a lot more at stake if you fail.

Having been in the industry for over 20 years Ben has seen trends come and go. From nouveau cuisine to molecular gastronomy and health food trends, Ben’s just about seen it all. Next on the horizon in food, he predicts simpler organic foods to be featured in a casual atmosphere. Diners, for instance, are making a comeback.

But what does the future have in store for Ben? “I want to take over the world,” Ben jokes. On a more serious note, Ben looks to open a third location and possibly open up Billykart Kitchen for dinner. Yet whatever the future holds for Ben O’Donoghue, fair winds are sure to carry him on.

Ben hasn’t spent much time cultivating a social media presence – though he hopes to change that in the near future – but you can look up Billykart Kitchen online, located in West End Brisbane and Annerley.

Ben O’Donoghue’s ten takeaways

Have courage – if the timing seems right, take a risk. Start that business, or open up that second location!
If there seems to be a fixed path laid out in life, that doesn’t mean you have to take it. Follow your heart.
Stay focused on what you want to deliver. Stay true to your loyal customers.
Don’t let negative comments wear you down. But listen to reasoned criticism.
When acting as a critic yourself, be constructive and thoughtful in your own comments.
You might want check out South Park’s take on the subject of amateur critics:
As Oliver Peyton once told Ben: Always hire someone better than you.
Though it takes a lot to run and work in a restaurant, work-life balance is important.
If you have a complaint, say it the moment it happens.
If you’re looking to expand your restaurant, plan it well and stay organized. And a steady cash flow doesn’t hurt, either.